Let’s face it, your chimney is the most abused part of your home. There it stands tall above your home, left to battle wind, rain, heat and freezing temperatures.

Maintaining your chimney is the best DIY job you can accomplish. Crumbling mortar? Mortar repair, known as re-pointing, will help you avoid a much more costly problem down the road. Re-pointing is the treatment of joints between bricks, stone or other masonry components by filling with mortar; also, called tuck-pointing.

Why is my mortar falling out?

Tools Needed For Mortar Repointing

  • Mortar Mix
  • Jointing Tool
  • Brick Trowel
  • Soft Brush
  • Container to mix cement in and hoe
  • Grinder w/ tuck pointing attachment and blade
  • Ladder or Scaffolding
  • Mason Hammer and Chisel
  • Pointing trowel
  • Scraper
  • Square mason trowel or board

Can I Prevent Damage to my Chimney?

Getting Started

Set up your work area before starting your job. Scaffolding or ladders should be properly set and if working on a high or extremely pitched roof, safety harnesses should be used.

Always work from the bottom up and work in small sections (a few feet or so). Start by removing the loose mortar with a mason’s hammer and chisel. For big jobs, renting an electric grinder may be more beneficial.

When all your loose joints are removed, spray down the area of the chimney that you just worked on with a hose to remove all loose debris and dust. Allow the chimney to dry so there is no standing water in the joints and the bricks are just damp.

Mix the mortar with a little more water than normal. Fill your pointing bag (you can buy one at the local hardware store) or load the bottom side of a square mason’s trowel (a board will also work) and hold it against the brick below the joint you are filling. Squeeze the pointing bag or take a portion of the mortar with a pointing trowel off the board and pack it into the joint. The mortar should flow freely and easily out of the bag, if not remix it with more water.

When your section of joints are full, with a brick trowel held flat against the brick, slice through the excess mortar and remove.

Each joint must now be compressed and shaped. By using a jointing tool, smooth each joint and remove excess mortar.

Continue to the next section until the job is complete.

When all the joints have set up, using a soft brush, clean the face of the brick.

Quick Tips

A couple hours after completing the job, go back over it with a stiff broom and remove any left over sand and/or dust.

Most likely, crumbling mortar may have already damaged the inside of your flue beyond repair. If this is the case, a stainless steel chimney liner will give you and your family the peace of mind needed during the long heating months.








    *Note: If you have a terra cotta clay chimney
    flue lining, be sure to measure the true length and width of the
    inside of your chimney flue space.

    *If there is a terra cotta clay flue liner, does it protrude out of
    the top of the chimney at least 2 inches? If there are at least 2
    inches and the terra cotta clay is in good condition, you will use
    our stainless steel, terra cotta top plate that has a 1 1⁄2inch edge
    that goes all the way around (like a shoebox lid).

    *If your terra cotta clay flue is in bad shape at the top, you may
    need to just take a hammer and tap all around that terra cotta,
    taking it away to make the surface flat at the top of your chimney.
    In that case, you will simply use the flat top plate that comes with
    our liner kit.



    *Note: If you have a terra cotta clay chimney
    flue lining, be sure to measure the true length and width of the
    inside of your chimney flue space.

    *If it is on the back of the stove, is it parallel with the back of the stove or is it at an angle, like 45 degrees?

    *If it is at an angle you will use an insert stove adaptor (an insert liner kit) rather than a two-part tee with cleanout cap.


    Usually pellet stoves have an exhaust hole id of 3 inches. However, if you are going up more than 15 feet to the top of your chimney you need to use a pipe and/or flex liner that is 4 inches diameter.





    If you are only venting a hot water heater then the exhaust hole diameter is probably 3 inch diameter. If it is 3 inch diameter and you are going up more than 15 feet to the top of your chimney, you must use a 4 inch diameter flexible liner or ridged pipe for proper draft. We also suggest to go ahead and use a 4 inch diameter flexible liner or ridged pipe even if the total length is 15 feet or less.


    Not the depth or any other dimension inside your fireplace.

    Most gas log fireplaces require an 8 inch liner kit or rigid kit. But do not assume that is the case for the gas log fireplace kit you are installing. Obey the requirements for that specific unit that are in your installation/instruction manual.

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