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The stack effect is when an unused flue has smoke coming out of it.  Most cases are when a home has 2 fireplaces, and the unused fireplace starts smoking.  This is called the stack effect.

On chimneys with multiple flues, the flue tiles should be staggered in height to help prevent one flue from sucking smoke downward from the adjacent one. A chimney should be built so that its flues can be as straight as possible, bends and offsets increase resistance and slow the exit of the smoke which can cause drafting problems.

It’s preferable to have the chimney built closer to the peak of the roof than on the lower side to reduce problems associated with a stack effect within the house, where there is a great difference in pressure between the air in the house and outdoor air. Air within the house leaves it, often from the upper sections such as the roof or upstairs windows. Entry air must be provided to replace the air that is exiting. When the chimney is on the lower side of the roof, replacement air may be drawn down the chimney. This can cause a competition between cold air being sucked down the chimney while the smoke is simultaneously trying to rise from it. A common problem is a chimney located in a one story room of a 2 story house which commonly suffers from negative pressure problems.

In our compulsive obsession to design energy-efficient “air tight” homes, we often don’t consider there must be means for outdoor air to enter the house to operate the devices we use in them. Chimneys must pull air from somewhere to provide combustion air for the fire AND allow an updraft so smoke and fumes can exit, so air must be supplied at an equivalent rate to replace the air leaving the chimney. Extremely airtight homes can prevent chimneys from operating properly, especially where other air-moving devices are being used such as furnaces, bathroom or kitchen vents, attic fans, clothes dryers, etc. Again, replacement air for these devices AND for the chimney may be entering through the chimney. It is possible to have cold air dropping down one side of flue while warm smoke or fumes are also trying to exit at the same time. Try cracking open the closest window to the fireplace to provide extra air for the fireplace AND make sure no other air-moving devices are being used in your home at the same time.

How Chimneys Work

The chimney needs to be at least 3′ higher than the roof where it penetrates AND 2′ taller than anything within 10′ away.

If your chimney once worked well and now doesn’t, consider whether you may have made alterations that affect its ability to draft, such as weatherstripping, replacement windows, new siding, extra insulation, room additions, or new appliances. High efficiency clothes dryers that dry clothes more quickly can use drastically more air to operate.

Chimney and fireplace professionals may be able to suggest alterations to improve or cure your smoking or malfunctioning fireplace in SOME situations. If your new stove or fireplace is not working properly, have it checked by a pro for advice. But remember, using the best principles of design for a fireplace or stove installation may not be overcome by the design of the house and the way that air enters and leaves it. Simply put, we in the fireplace industry cannot solve smoking or draft problems in every situation.

One thing that helps many times is and outside air kit.  This is basically a connection from the furnace, wood stove, fireplace or any other appliance to the outside.  This is designed so it takes air from the outside and burns that air instead of taking air from the inside of the home.  This will reduce drafts coming into the home and may make the appliance run better if it was “starving” for air.








    *Note: If you have a terra cotta clay chimney
    flue lining, be sure to measure the true length and width of the
    inside of your chimney flue space.

    *If there is a terra cotta clay flue liner, does it protrude out of
    the top of the chimney at least 2 inches? If there are at least 2
    inches and the terra cotta clay is in good condition, you will use
    our stainless steel, terra cotta top plate that has a 1 1⁄2inch edge
    that goes all the way around (like a shoebox lid).

    *If your terra cotta clay flue is in bad shape at the top, you may
    need to just take a hammer and tap all around that terra cotta,
    taking it away to make the surface flat at the top of your chimney.
    In that case, you will simply use the flat top plate that comes with
    our liner kit.



    *Note: If you have a terra cotta clay chimney
    flue lining, be sure to measure the true length and width of the
    inside of your chimney flue space.

    *If it is on the back of the stove, is it parallel with the back of the stove or is it at an angle, like 45 degrees?

    *If it is at an angle you will use an insert stove adaptor (an insert liner kit) rather than a two-part tee with cleanout cap.


    Usually pellet stoves have an exhaust hole id of 3 inches. However, if you are going up more than 15 feet to the top of your chimney you need to use a pipe and/or flex liner that is 4 inches diameter.





    If you are only venting a hot water heater then the exhaust hole diameter is probably 3 inch diameter. If it is 3 inch diameter and you are going up more than 15 feet to the top of your chimney, you must use a 4 inch diameter flexible liner or ridged pipe for proper draft. We also suggest to go ahead and use a 4 inch diameter flexible liner or ridged pipe even if the total length is 15 feet or less.


    Not the depth or any other dimension inside your fireplace.

    Most gas log fireplaces require an 8 inch liner kit or rigid kit. But do not assume that is the case for the gas log fireplace kit you are installing. Obey the requirements for that specific unit that are in your installation/instruction manual.

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