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By: John Haynes

Maintenance Tip #1 Preparing the water heater
Turn off the power if its an electric water heater.
Turn off the water to the water heater by closing the valve on the cold water line. Its located on top of the water heater. The cold line is always to the right.
Open a hot water tap inside the house. Air pressure will come out of the tap.
Open the drain valve located at the bottom of the water heater. It looks like a
hose bibb. Let a gallon or more out of the water heater.
Do not allow anyone to use hot water for the time you are working on the water heater.

Maintenance Tip #2 Why do maintenance?
The information in this article isn’t public knowledge. It should be. It is also very difficult to find any maintenance information about water heaters anywhere.
These tips will make it more heat efficient, and far less capable of causing problems down the road. Most maintenance is quick and cheap as well.

Maintenance Tip #3 Access of the hexhead
On top of every tank-type water heater lies a hexagonal-shaped head. It is either readily seen or it is not. If it is not, then this is a chance for improving the future maintenance of the water heater.
Drill very shallow 1/4 inch holes one at a time through the sheet metal top of the water heater. Do not drill into the water heater or it will be unusable. Once a hole is drilled use a thin object such as a pen or screwdriver to poke inside and locate the hex head.
When located, use tin snips to peel back the tin metal at the top and remove any foam insulation near the hex head. Use tape to cover up the sharp edges of the tin metal to avoid cutting your hands. Pat the edges of tin down with a hammer as well. Now your anode rods inside your tank can be maintained more easily. That’s because they are attached to the hex head.

Maintenance Tip #4 When can a gas water heater receive maintenance?
Turn the control dial to PILOT. Look inside the combustion chamber once the flame is out with a flashlight. Do you see any water, rust, or water marks? If yes, then you’ll probably need to invest in a brand new water heater altogether. If no, then maintenance of the water heater will be an option for you. Now look on top of the gas water heater at the chimney baffle. It’s the long piece of tin metal that extends to the ceiling usually. Does it have any rust on it? If yes, then you have poor ventilation in the room with the water heater in it. Call a plumber for advice on your situation, because you don’t want a hole rusted through the tin metal. If no rust appears, maintenance can be performed.

Maintenance Tip #5 Recording the maintenance you do.
Put a large sticker on the outside of the water heater, but don’t put it on anything important. Record the date when you check or replace the anode rods. Also write down any time you flush the tank out. If any new parts are used, write the part and date down too.

Maintenance Tip #6 Anode inspection
Check your anode rods every two or three years. Every once in awhile the anode location is written on the instruction on the outside of the water heater.
You may have a combination anode rod. This means that it is attached to the hot water outlet on top of the water heater. To find out if you have one, disconnect the plumbing at the water heater and the hot water outlet, which is always on the left. Poke a clothes hanger wire straight down inside the hole. If it hits something a few inches inside, you have a combination anode. Use a pipe wrench to remove the combination anode.
You may have an anode rod underneath a plastic disc only 2 inches wide or less. Pop the disc and then use a 1-1/16 inch socket wrench, a 3/4 drive, and a breaker bar. Any person may have to steady the tank when you unscrew the anode rod.

Check out http://www.waterheater-info.com or contact [email protected] for contact information on solar water heaters (they’re the ultimate in energy efficiency), tankless water heaters (they save you money on your energy bill), traditional tank-type water heaters (they’re the cheapest and easiest to install), water heater repair and maintenance, brand information, warranty information and which installer to hire.








    *Note: If you have a terra cotta clay chimney
    flue lining, be sure to measure the true length and width of the
    inside of your chimney flue space.

    *If there is a terra cotta clay flue liner, does it protrude out of
    the top of the chimney at least 2 inches? If there are at least 2
    inches and the terra cotta clay is in good condition, you will use
    our stainless steel, terra cotta top plate that has a 1 1⁄2inch edge
    that goes all the way around (like a shoebox lid).

    *If your terra cotta clay flue is in bad shape at the top, you may
    need to just take a hammer and tap all around that terra cotta,
    taking it away to make the surface flat at the top of your chimney.
    In that case, you will simply use the flat top plate that comes with
    our liner kit.



    *Note: If you have a terra cotta clay chimney
    flue lining, be sure to measure the true length and width of the
    inside of your chimney flue space.

    *If it is on the back of the stove, is it parallel with the back of the stove or is it at an angle, like 45 degrees?

    *If it is at an angle you will use an insert stove adaptor (an insert liner kit) rather than a two-part tee with cleanout cap.


    Usually pellet stoves have an exhaust hole id of 3 inches. However, if you are going up more than 15 feet to the top of your chimney you need to use a pipe and/or flex liner that is 4 inches diameter.





    If you are only venting a hot water heater then the exhaust hole diameter is probably 3 inch diameter. If it is 3 inch diameter and you are going up more than 15 feet to the top of your chimney, you must use a 4 inch diameter flexible liner or ridged pipe for proper draft. We also suggest to go ahead and use a 4 inch diameter flexible liner or ridged pipe even if the total length is 15 feet or less.


    Not the depth or any other dimension inside your fireplace.

    Most gas log fireplaces require an 8 inch liner kit or rigid kit. But do not assume that is the case for the gas log fireplace kit you are installing. Obey the requirements for that specific unit that are in your installation/instruction manual.

    THANK YOU FOR ANSWERING THOSE QUESTIONS

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