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Class A Chimney Through a Vaulted Ceiling

Sometimes you may want to install a Class A chimney and you want the best draft possible.  Instead of going out of the wall horizontally with the double wall pipe and using a tee, you may choose to go through your ceiling and the attic and out through the roof.  This way your new factory built chimney will have no turns or bends, giving you less turbulence and the best draft possible in your Class A chimney.

If your ceiling is flat you can use a round ceiling support.  If you have a vaulted ceiling and want to install a metal chimney through it, you need to use a Class A Chimney Square Ceiling Support. This box is secured to the rafters and maintains the minimum clearances to combustibles.

The bottom of the support box needs to be exposed by at least 2 inches on all sides.  If your ceiling has a steeper pitch you need to install a taller support box. The trim on the support box is made from two separate pieces that slide over each other and adjust to the pitch you may need.

Then if the double wall chimney pipe passes into the attic, you must install an attic insulation shield or build an enclosure around the chimney pipe that will prevent anything from coming in direct contact with the chimney.  Always make sure you maintain your minimum clearances.  The rest of the insulation is just like a through the house installation.

 

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    *Note: If you have a terra cotta clay chimney
    flue lining, be sure to measure the true length and width of the
    inside of your chimney flue space.

    *If there is a terra cotta clay flue liner, does it protrude out of
    the top of the chimney at least 2 inches? If there are at least 2
    inches and the terra cotta clay is in good condition, you will use
    our stainless steel, terra cotta top plate that has a 1 1⁄2inch edge
    that goes all the way around (like a shoebox lid).

    *If your terra cotta clay flue is in bad shape at the top, you may
    need to just take a hammer and tap all around that terra cotta,
    taking it away to make the surface flat at the top of your chimney.
    In that case, you will simply use the flat top plate that comes with
    our liner kit.



    *Note: If you have a terra cotta clay chimney
    flue lining, be sure to measure the true length and width of the
    inside of your chimney flue space.

    *If it is on the back of the stove, is it parallel with the back of the stove or is it at an angle, like 45 degrees?

    *If it is at an angle you will use an insert stove adaptor (an insert liner kit) rather than a two-part tee with cleanout cap.


    Usually pellet stoves have an exhaust hole id of 3 inches. However, if you are going up more than 15 feet to the top of your chimney you need to use a pipe and/or flex liner that is 4 inches diameter.





    If you are only venting a hot water heater then the exhaust hole diameter is probably 3 inch diameter. If it is 3 inch diameter and you are going up more than 15 feet to the top of your chimney, you must use a 4 inch diameter flexible liner or ridged pipe for proper draft. We also suggest to go ahead and use a 4 inch diameter flexible liner or ridged pipe even if the total length is 15 feet or less.


    Not the depth or any other dimension inside your fireplace.

    Most gas log fireplaces require an 8 inch liner kit or rigid kit. But do not assume that is the case for the gas log fireplace kit you are installing. Obey the requirements for that specific unit that are in your installation/instruction manual.

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